Two PHEVs, one garage — what actually works while I wait for my Level 2 install?

My spouse and I run a small farm stand outside town in rural Vermont, and this spring we went from one PHEV to two — I've had a Pacifica Hybrid for about a year and a half for hauling stand inventory and the kids, and my spouse just picked up a RAV4 Prime for the commute. We've got a detached two-car garage with two 15A outlets on the wall, original to the building as far as I can tell (it's a 1970s pole barn we converted). Called three electricians in April about a real Level 2 setup — dedicated circuit, maybe two spots — and the earliest anyone can actually get out here to look at the panel is late September. Panel's already pretty full, so I'm guessing this turns into a subpanel job, not a quick add. In the meantime we've been running the factory 120V cords that came with each car, one per outlet. Don't know if the two outlets share a circuit — the panel labels are from the previous owner and half of them just say 'shop.' Ran both cords through a cheap two-outlet splitter for about a week when we had houseguests, and it got noticeably warm to the touch after a couple hours, so I unplugged it and stopped. Before I do something dumber waiting four more weeks: what actually works here?
5 13 answers
13 ANSWERS
quietwalrus
@quietwalrusAugust 28, 2026
Two 120V cordsets running at once on one 15A circuit is about 24A continuous. The National Electrical Code sizes continuous loads at 125%, which is where the 80% ceiling comes from — a 15A circuit is only good for 12A on anything running three hours or longer, which overnight charging always does. A splitter doesn't change that math, it just hides it behind one plug instead of two.
minty_raccoon
@minty_raccoonAugust 24, 2026
Saw a Kasa plug on a service call this spring that had basically fused into the outlet from a summer of nightly EV charging. No tripped breaker, no spark — it just slowly cooked itself over a couple months. Those relays aren't built for that kind of continuous draw every night.
Rae Martinez
@Rae MartinezVerified ExpertAugust 24, 2026
Once you know your circuit situation, alternating which car charges each night is the actual workaround that gets you through a few months without touching the wiring. Most PHEVs let you set a departure time or charge schedule from the car's own app or screen — worth checking both of yours instead of assuming it's only for off-peak electricity rates. Set one car to charge overnight on alternating days, physically move the cord on the days it switches, and neither circuit ever sees two vehicles pulling at once. It's not elegant and it depends on someone actually remembering to plug in the right car, but it doesn't involve any hardware that can fail the way a splitter can. Also worth a call to whoever quoted your L2 job: ask if a smaller "add one dedicated circuit" visit is something they'd take before the bigger panel work, since that's a much shorter job than the full install.
briarcove
@briarcoveAugust 24, 2026
Didn't realize the RAV4 had a scheduler — thought that was just for off-peak pricing. Is there any real risk in unplugging one cord and plugging in the other as long as neither's actively charging, or would running an extension cord to the second spot just move the same problem somewhere else?
fernhollow_j
@fernhollow_jAugust 24, 2026
Unplugging a cordset that isn't under load is a non-event — the actual risk is disconnecting while current is flowing, not the unplug itself. Extension cords are the bigger problem in that question: most 120V EVSE manuals explicitly say not to use one, since a coiled cord traps heat and every extra connection point is one more spot for resistance to build under a multi-hour load. Same failure mode as a splitter, just relocated to a different cord.
picklewindow
@picklewindowAugust 24, 2026
Could just grab a couple of outlet timers and alternate them automatically — way less hassle than waiting on an electrician. Set one to run midnight to 3, the other 3 to 6, done.
kmoore79
@kmoore79August 25, 2026
Not all outlet timers are rated for that kind of continuous pull — the ones sold for holiday lights and lamps are built for a load that's on and off, not eight hours steady at 12A. Guys on my crew have seen the cheap mechanical ones weld shut or just melt at the switch contacts under continuous EV load. If you go that route, check that it's actually rated for continuous duty at the full amperage, not just "15A" printed on the box.
gravelfox88
@gravelfox88August 24, 2026
Got called out last year for a burning smell. Turned out to be two 120V cordsets on a splitter, one 15A garage circuit, running nightly for about two months before the outlet scorched behind the cover plate. Breaker never tripped once.
orbit_snack
@orbit_snackAugust 30, 2026
Breakers aren't built to trip instantly at a moderate overload. A thermal-magnetic 15A breaker can tolerate something in the neighborhood of 24A for a while — sometimes tens of minutes — before it trips. That's what let the situation above run for two months. The breaker is protecting against a hard fault, not a slow overload sitting at a weak connection.
hazelrun
@hazelrunAugust 26, 2026
Ran an extension cord to my second car's spot for about a month before it occurred to me to check on it. Male end was warm after a long charge. Swapped it for a real circuit and moved on.
kmoore79
@kmoore79August 24, 2026
Ask whoever quoted the L2 job to check whether those two garage outlets are already on the same circuit before you assume either way. Flip breakers one at a time and see which outlet drops, or have someone check with a clamp meter while both cars are pulling. Cheap thing to confirm before you guess wrong in either direction.
briarcove
@briarcoveAugust 24, 2026
Flipped breakers one at a time — both outlets are on the same 15A circuit, confirmed the second the RAV4's cord lost power. Alternating nights with the RAV4's scheduler starting tonight, moving the Pacifica's cord by hand until someone from my April list can fit in a smaller add-a-circuit visit instead of the full quote.
static_jelly
@static_jellyAugust 26, 2026
Borrowed an IR thermometer from work before trusting my own garage outlets with two vehicles. Ran each car alone for twenty minutes, checked the plug and outlet face for a hot spot after. Doesn't tell you what circuit it's on, but it flags a stressed connection fast.